The Global Slowmad

It took us six full days and four guided tours to cover even a small portion of central Lisbon. And it still feels like we have barely scratched the surface.

The city is beautiful in every possible way, and it has been exciting to discover something new around seemingly every corner. Lisbon is overflowing with scenic vistas, historic architecture and powerful street art. The food scene is incredible. Everyone we have met so far has been friendly – even after learning we are from the United States, and it turns out that English is a common language among the myriad international visitors to the city and pretty much anyone in the service industry. We’ve barely even had an opportunity to practice the smattering of Portugese we learned.

Unfortunately, the weather has been unseasonably wet and unpredictable. Because of the hills and the meandering street pattern, you can change from hot to cold, dry to wet and calm to wind-blown at literally every turn. We’ve learned to layer our clothing aggressively, typically leaving our apartment in a short-sleeve shirt while carrying along a sweater for warmth and a raincoat to stay dry. The steep hills also mean that every day is leg day in Lisbon; there is no need for a gym. We’ve also learned that Darla is not a fan of salt cod, which happens to be the national dish of Portugal despite being one of very few seafood items that must be imported from elsewhere.

The primary districts we have visited so far include Baixa, Alfama, Mouraria, Chiado, Bairro Alto, Principe Real, Cais do Sodre and Arroios. Our time in all of them has been brief, but here are our initial thoughts on each.

• Baixa: Too many tourists, and not the good kind. That said, Baixa features stunning architecture and the only flat land in Lisbon, having been completely rebuilt in the style of the day after being destroyed and flooded in the great earthquake, fire and tsunami of 1755. This is where the cruise ship crowd comes to shop, and most never make it up the hill to the other neighborhoods.

• Alfama: A time capsule. This neighborhood exudes history, as it largely survived the tragic events of 1755 and still features the narrow, winding streets of its Moorish origin. It is the place to find authentic fado and homemade ginjinha.

• Mouraria: Still a melting pot after 1,000 years. Centuries ago, this was a sanctuary for marginalized groups not permitted to live in the city proper. Today, it is where a substantial portion of Lisbon’s immigrant community has chosen to live. They enjoy some of the best views in the city.

• Chiado: Trendy place for tourists and locals to mingle. Chiado features boutique shops, top-rated restaurants and historic buildings. There are still a few bargains to be had, but it’s easy to thin your wallet in this district.

• Bairro Alto: Young people and tourists living their best lives. Bairro Alto is a little higher in elevation, so there are some great viewpoints and a few nice hotels with rooftop patios that cater to the high-end traveler. The narrow streets and alleys of this district are full of bars and clubs that attract people a lot younger and cooler than us.

• Principe Real: Keepin’ it classy. Avenida da Liberdade features grand old buildings and the same luxury brands you would see in any major metropolitan city but also local boutiques and a weekend flea market with artisan crafts. This neighborhood is also a brunch haven and the location of a delightful weekend farmer’s market specializing in organic produce and artisanal baked goods.

• Cais de Sodre: We don’t get the appeal. Admittedly, we did not venture far beyond Time Out Market. And it should be our kind of place. Many of the country’s greatest chefs have opened small outposts in the market, and there is a fresh produce market next door. Perhaps the problem is the corporate branding that renders the market devoid of real character. Perhaps it is simply too popular (i.e., crowded) for us. Or (and I’m beginning to sense a recurring theme) we’re just not cool enough.

• Arroios: International House of Granola. Time Out magazine named this as the coolest neighborhood in the world back in 2019. Gentrification is fully underway now (we are staying here in a recently renovated 100-year-old building), but there are still enough rough edges to maintain some character. We have encountered numerous long-term travelers out and about, but they skew young, international and hipster. It’s an interesting contrast with the elderly locals who share the space.

We will publish a more detailed Lisbon trip report sometime next month and will keep posting the occasional photo from daily explorations on Instagram, but that’s it for today. Thanks for reading!